Ice Climbing in the Western Alps

La Grave (France)


Looking for the steep bits of the first pitch of Moulins (Ph. X. Jehl) Defying the danger from above on La Colere

Back to Icehome Argentera Bardonecchia Ceillac Fournel
Freissinieres La Grave Gressoney Maurienne Varaita

The Climbs:

Le Pylôn


Getting there:
The icefall is located in a gully on the right flank (west) of the buttress under the pillar of the cable car and it is well visible from the road just after passing La Grave. From the cable car parking lot descend toward the creek, and gain the other side of the valley floor (small bridge). Follow the cross country ski trail to the right (west) for about one km. When the icefall becomes visible climb toward it following a usually good trace.
Description:
The icefall can be climbed along two distinct lines that joins only at the summit.

1) Climb on the left side on steep ground toward a bolt belay (85º, 30 m). Then exit to the right staying close to the rocks in the gradually easing and narrowing gully (85º-75º, 40 m, last belay on a tree).

2) Stay on the rightmost edge of the fall climbing a vertical wall a t first (90º-85º). It is better to continue to a screw belay in a vague ice ledge rather than traversing to the bolt belay. It is rumoured that there might be a rock belay on the right. Climb another steep wall and continue then to the summit gully.

Descent:
Easy. Rappel the route.
Notes and Tales:
This is a pretty, albeit short, long-lasting climb which obviously suffers from heavy overcrowding. Once I saw a rather large group of people participating at an ice climbing stage there. One guy was top roping the first pitch while the others were watching, while waiting for their turn. Huge chunks of ice were flying all over the place but no one seemed to mind, until a flying ice cube didn't find its Martini but it found a poor guy face. Blood spilled all over, and the unfortunate fellow passed out. He was re-animated and walked out to the hospital while the remaining of the party kept climbing and throwing ice cubes to each other. It was amazing to watch.

Les Valseuses


Getting there:
There are a few climbs on the broken cliff right of Le Pylôn but they are not of great interest and, late in season, they are usually hidden under the snow. Further to the right the cliff becomes more imposing and hosts the obvious line of La Croupe de la Poufiasse (this cliff is located straight north from elevation 1975 m on the IGN map). On its left there are two obvious icicle. The one closer to La Croupe, is Le Doigt D'Astarothe, the one closer to Le Pylôn is Les Valseuses. Reach the snow slopes underneath by the cross country ski trail.
Description:
Climb the snow gully that arches toward the free-standing, overcoming some ice bulge. Screw belay underneath the column. Climb it centrally to a tree belay on top. Depending on conditions there might be difficult overhanging moves halfway up (90º and more, sustained and strenuous).
Descent:
Easy. Rappel the route.
Notes:
Xavier Jehl did this climb the last winter and he mailed me some pictures together with this description of the route:
"When at the foot of the free-standing 30m long pitch, you can either run back home or prepare your arms to be useful. I have chosen the second solution but I'll never forget it!"

I guess that it says it all...


La Croupe de la Poufiasse

  • Grade: III/4+ 5
  • Star rating: **
  • Height: 220 m with the easier final lengths.
  • Orientation: North.
  • Elevation: 1550 m.
  • Approach: 40 mn.
  • Equipment: ice screws.
  • Photo: a very tiny climber is starting the crux on the third pitch.

Getting there:
This is the most evident icefall of the site. From Les Fréaux descend toward the creek and cross it on a bridge. Take the cross country ski trail on the left for about 500 m and leave it just before a low, ugly building. Reach the base of the icefall by scrambling up a snow field. Usually the track is pretty evident.
Description:
Climb the first two pitches which are much easier than they look from the road (75º, bolt belay half way up on the right). After a steeper wall reach a rock belay on the left under the impressive crux. Check the belay twice, exchange a worried look with your companion and traverse briefly to the right and start ascending (90º, delicate). After about 15 m an escape is possible to the right on easier bulges (85º) leading to the exit which is a narrow icicle often partially detached from the rock (90º, sustained). It is possible, but not advisable, to spit this pitch by placing a delicate belay on the right (just after the intermediate bulges) or on the left in a small cave under the final icicle (I spotted an old peg deep in there). This is a wonderful, steep, sustained pitch leading to a bolt belay on the left (40 m). The icefall continue with an easy snow gully and two moderately interesting pitches (75º-80º max). Worth only if there is little snow covering the ice.
Descent:
Easy. Rappel the route.
Notes:
This is probably the best climb of the site of Les Fréaux and it is a rewarding outing even if the difficult section is only one pitch long. Of course difficulties on the crux varies depending on conditions. Personally I found this pitch being more sustained and engaged than the crucial final icicle of Le Monde de Glace at Fournel. This climb is safe from avalanche danger.

La Nuit Sera Fraîche

  • Grade: II/3+
  • Star rating: *
  • Height: 100 m .
  • Orientation: North.
  • Elevation: 1550 m.
  • Approach: 35 mn.
  • Equipment: ice screws.
  • Photo: a minor traffic jam near the top of the first pitch.

Getting there:
This icefall is immediately on the right of La Croupe. From Les Fréaux descend toward the creek and cross a bridge. Follow the cross country ski trail for about 500 m until arriving in a small widening of the wood with an ugly low building at its end. Leave the trail before arriving at the building and at the track of la Croupe, and climb the easy slopes under the icefall.
Description:
The first pitch is the most evident from the road and it is composed by three delicate icicle curtains. The pitch is longer and steeper if climbed on the left side (40 m). When I climbed it, conditions were very lean and it was pretty steep (80º in average) with a sustained vertical exit. In better condition the pitch is easier and less sustained than that. Belay on a tree at the summit. There is a nonsense rock belay on a ledge on the right of the final step: stay away.

Climb an easy snow gully that slants to the right and leads to the second pitch. Climb it to a tree belay (lovely, up to 85º, 30 m). After having rappelled down from this pitch, an easy scramble up the snow gully (about 100 m), uncovers another nice ice wall (75º-80º max, 40 m, picture at right).

Descent:
Easy. Rappels from trees.
Notes:
This is a short but nice climb. It can be climbed in the same day after La Croupe, by traversing in the wood at the base of the two icefalls.

La Colere du Ciel

  • Grade: III/3+
  • Star rating: **
  • Height: 250 m.
  • Orientation: North.
  • Elevation: 1650 m.
  • Approach: 50 mn.
  • Equipment: ice screws.
  • Photo: a red climber on the central step.

Getting there:
This is the rightmost climb of the Les Fréaux site, and it looms quite obviously very high up over the village. From Les Fréaux descend toward the creek, cross the bridge and leave the trail right away beginning the longish ascent in the wood. After an initial steep bit stay on the left near the edge of the wood toward the snow gully that originates from the fall itself. After about 35 mn the ice will start to appear beyond the trees. The attack of the climb is on a ice slab that slants to the right. Usually there is a large icicle on the left: this is the first pitch of Diabolobite (III/5, 200 m, discontinuous, rappels).
Description:
Belay on a single bolt on the left just below the attack of the icicle. Climb the slab for 50 m to a tree belay on the left (65º-70º). Continue in a snow gully with a few short ice bulges (70º max, about 120 m). There is a bolt belay on the right after about 80 m, and keep this in mind for the descent. Reach the base of the large and beautiful central step, don't stay on the right but reach for a bolt belay on a rock outcrop well on the left of the icefall. Early in season, or after a snow fall, this belay may be hidden: use some ingenuity and all of your archaeological skills to dig in the right place. You may find two rock pegs instead of the bolts: good job: the proper belay is exactly 8 meters below! Climb the step that gradually eases to a snow ledge and to four bolts on the right (80º-85º, 50 m). The following pitch can be climbed on the right (85º max) or on the left (up to 90º at the beginning). In both cases find a tree belay on the right after 50 m. Most parties terminates the climb here, but I strongly suggest to carry on. Twenty meters of easy snow bring to another tree belay on the right. Climb some lovely ice bulges for 40 m to a tree belay on the left (65º-70º), then continue along easy snow for 40 m to yet another tree belay on the right. The final pitch can be climbed on mixed ground near the center (75º).
Descent:
Easy but longish. From the summit descend the wood on the orographic left passing the last tree belay to another one placed about 10 m lower. One rappel (45 m) leads to another tree belay on the left (orographic). Another short rappel (20 m) lands on the tree belay on top of the central ice wall. Descend from there to the four bolts and, with another rappel, to the bolt belay at the base of the central step. The fifth rappel lands on the belay at the middle of the easy gully, and from there, if you use all of the elasticity of a 50 m rope, you will rest twenty meters above of the last belay and of the last rappel.
Notes:

Promenade de Mateysin

  • Grade: III/3+
  • Star rating: **
  • Height: 200 m.
  • Orientation: South.
  • Elevation: 1300 m.
  • Approach: 10 mn.
  • Equipment: Ice screws, a few blades and some cordelette for the rappels.
  • Photo: Xavier on the second pitch in very lean conditions.
Getting there:
From Les Fréaux drive west along RN91. Immediately after leaving the village there is a wide gully bordered on the left by a large rock face (marked la Cote Longue on the IGN map).The buttress descends almost to the road and then it climbs up again. At this point it should be visible the first big icefall, characterised by a large rock overhang on top of its first section. This is Alea Iacta Est (160 m, IV/5). A couple of hundred meters on the left of this icefall, the rock face descends again almost to the road and then it climbs up a little. Promenade starts on the right of an obvious overhang, about 300 m on the left of Alea Iacta Est, and about 100 m on the right of the buildings of le Grand Clot.
Description:
The first pitch is on the left of the obvious overhang, which is rarely iced and it is surmounted by a narrow gully that hosts the continuation of the climb. Climb the first pitch selecting the steepest line slightly on the left (up to 80º). Belay on rocks (two blades useful). Traverse to the left on an easy ledge to a bolt belay hidden past a small rock nose, continue on easy snow to the base of the next step and, if the ice is thick enough, place a screw belay here, otherwise look for something on the rocks on the right (30 m). Climb this nice pitch to a narrow exit and to a snow gully (70º-80º). Look for two pegs on the left wall. From this stance descends a little and climb the next ice step on the right (moves at 80º) to a narrow gully against the rock (thinly iced, if iced at all). A steeper bulge leads to a rock stance on the right. Now the gully is easy and we ended our ascent. If you are in an exploratory mood, you should find a couple of pitches more before reaching the ledge that terminates the climb.
Descent:
Rappel the route. Some of the gear in place is pretty old. We left one peg on belay three and a steel biner on each belay. Bring some gear and some rope to leave there.
Notes and Tales:
La Promenade is not a great climb and it does not look remotely as impressive as other more famous (and crowded) lines in the area, but it has lots of character. The ice sections are interesting enough, even if they are pretty discontinuous. What the icefall lack in continuity is compensated by the atmosphere: the face is really severe, big and impressive and it seems pretty amazing that a gully can lead to the middle ledge with such moderate difficulties. The belays are not in obvious places, and they are sometimes a bit far away one from the other, compelling to some creative solutions on the way up.

Christmas 1996 was not an easy time to find a decent climb. Most things in Italy were in good shape, but the slopes were so totally snowed out that just looking upwards was discharging big avalanches. It was upsetting, especially for Paul, that, having come all the way from Boston, wanted at least to have a look at some of the real Alpine icefalls. When we finally decided for la Grave we found out that the Lautaret pass was closed because of too much wind! if you can believe it. So we were able to begin our trip only on the last possible day, not twenty hours away from Paul's plane departure. I really wanted to make it to la Grave because I had the gut feeling that, considering the prevailing south-westerly weather, we might have found less snowy conditions on the northern edge of the Ecrins range. From Briançon we begun our pilgrimage to the Lautaret pass there on the amazing and snow-chainless Xavier-mobile (why it is amazing and chainless is a different story). My predictions seemed totally irrelevant and our hopes seemed to turn into shreds as we drove in a total white out, and we could only faintly distinguish five meters of the road ahead and the five meters walls of snow on the sides. Hmmm... matter for thought. On the other end the wind was really something mind dumbing, and so, we were hopefully speculating, this humongous wall of snow could be due to simple wind accumulation. Regardless we kept crawling down the pass, zig-zagging between hordes of skiers from Paris (as Xavier noted, not without some satisfaction, from the car plates) that were blocked on the sides of the nearly disappeared road and were slowly freezing to death, in their ridiculous and colourful skiers outfits, while fighting with the snow-chains and the cold.

There is no question in my mind that the Great Feat of the Day was arriving in la Grave with the car and in one piece. At his point it was really late, but, oh boy!, was it worthwhile. Our necks kept getting close to their rupture limit while twisting right and left and aaahing and ooohing every single icefalls. Obviously there were loads of people everywhere: we counted 24 cars parked around the Grand Clot tunnel. Guys were already rappelling from Caturgeas over the heads of the would be climbers. Brutal noises of vicious fighting 300 meters up there were heard echoing in the valley and were more than enough to keep us away. The Grand Clot icefall was the only fat line left by itself but just looking at the thin hanging icicle of pitch three explained it all. We went for La Promenade that looked thin from below but also totally deserted......


Caturgeas

  • Grade: IV/3+
  • Star rating: ***
  • Height: 300 m plus 300 m in the final easy gully.
  • Orientation: South.
  • Elevation: 1300 m.
  • Approach: 30 or 50 seconds depending on what side of the car you sit.
  • Equipment: Ice screws.
  • Photo: Climbing on the pitch that leaves the overhang.
Getting there:
From Les Fréaux continue along RN91 until the two tunnels of Le Grand Clot. There is the possibility of parking a few cars between the two tunnels, otherwise park just before the first one. Caturgeas forms along the large corner followed by the Rif de Caturgeas (see IGN map). The middle section of the icefall is well visible up, up there before reaching the tunnel (see picture). The first pitch forms right on top of the first tunnel. Twenty meters to the right of the first pitch there is a narrow gully, often poor in ice (Goulotte Martinez, II/4, 70 m). Check this gully out before starting the climb since this is the line followed by the last two rappels down. If properly parked you can belay the first pitch from the warmth of your car...
Description:
The initial two pitches lead at the base of the large open corner well visible from the road. Bolt belay on the rock face at the right of the base of the open book (75º). Follow it for two or three pitches of uniform difficulty aiming at an overhang formed by a large rock that split the icefall in two branches (75º brief steeper bulges) . There are numerous belays, usually on the left (orographic right) side. From the overhang belay it is possible to climb either on the right or on the left. In average conditions the best line is on the left. The traverse out of the belay to the following gully is one of the best section of this fantastic climb. Enjoy it. Two more pitches (70º, bolt belay on the left, give a look to the incredible icicle of Moulins to the left) and a brief snow gully lead to a beautiful steep ice formation (picture on the right). Climb it on the left flank to a bushy tree (too small to be a tree, too big to be a bush) surrounded by many slings (75º-85º, 45 m).

This is the end of the real icefall and most parties rap down from here. The climb continues for over 300 m along the snow gully which is interrupted by several short ice bulges, more or less conspicuous depending on the amount of snow. The gully dies on delicate slopes (watch out for possible wind slab, delicate terrain, keep in mind the 700 m vertical distance from the valley floor!) which lead to the plateau d'En Paris.

Descent:
Easy but several long rappels. The last two rappels are not along the icefall itself but they are down the Goulotte Martinez (almost a chimney, really) about 20 m to the orographic left of the first pitch. Check this line out before starting the climb, so you know exactly where to abseil. Watch out: the icefall is long and so it is the descent which may well end at night.

On the other end if you were brave enough and the conditions were good, now you might well be at the top of the plateau d'En Paris. Descend to the right (East) staying far away from the cliff toward the ski slopes and the village of Chazelet (at least 1.30 hr, even more with lots of snow). Aim to a bridge that is to the left of the village. At night (likely!) or in the fog, compass, altimeter and a map would be essential assets. From the village either follow the road back to La Grave (easy but long, consider over 1 hr) or, if the snow conditions allow, follow the summer trail that descend down (steep) to the tiny chapel of Notre Dame de Bon Repos and to Les Fréaux.

Notes and Tales:
In my mind there is no doubt whatsoever that this is the most beautiful climb of this difficulty in the entire world. The climb is absolutely homogeneous for over 8 pitches, without more than 10 or 20 meters of easy snow. The pitch that leads out of the overhang is some fantastic, exposed climbing.

From a technical point of view the climb is rather easy, but it is pretty long and there can be danger from above, both because of ice detached by other climbers and because of more natural, but not less dangerous, agents, like wind slabs.

Understandably, give the beauty and the non existent approach, this icefall sees lots of climbers. Start early before of the big wave. Or, if you feel apt to, start really late and carry head lamps with you. This is what I did with Maurizio and Alfredo. We did most of the abseils at night and it was a solitary, fantastic world that we had all for ourselves. I still remember, as in a dream, the constellations of tiny stars sparkling from the crampons against the rocks while rappelling down the Martinez gully.


Les Moulins

  • Grade: III/4 the first 200 m. Otherwise IV/6.
  • Star rating: **
  • Height: 220 m until the icicle.
  • Orientation: South.
  • Elevation: 1300 m.
  • Approach: 5'
  • Equipment: Ice screws.
  • Photo: The lower 200 m of Moulins as seen from over the parking.
Getting there:
From the parking lot between the two tunnels climb on the second one (west) and reach the base of the climb.
Description:
Climb the large ice triangle either on the left, or at the center or at the right. Belays on the rock at right or left (75º). This pitch is better an a bit steeper on the right (bolt belay under a small overhang, 50 m). Climb a steep curtain at the left more or less directly (85º-75º) to easier ground and a belay on the left. Easy ground leads to a beautiful wall formed by two overimposed icicles (belay on the left). Climb this rather sustained pitch to an easy snow gully (belay at left).

And now the real fun begins and the climb turns into a grade 6 endeavour. The snow gully leads to the mesmerising icicle. This can be climbed in two or three pitches, by using two intermediate belay on the right, and on the left (90º and more, extremely sustained, 50 m). The icicle can be avoided either by a allegedly easier (but still difficult) narrow gully about 40 m to the left, or by a traverse to the right to the final ice pitch of Caturgeas. The following snow gully, interrupted by one major ice step, continues to the summit of the plateau d'En Paris.

Descent:
Easy rappels from under the icicle. The icicle itself can be rappelled with 50 m ropes. See Caturgeas for the descent from the plateau.
Notes and Tales:
Moulins is justly famous because of its colossal icicle. From the valley floor only the initial section of the climb is visible and no one could ever guess the existence of such a huge iceberg looming up there. The icicle is extremely difficult and sustained and I suspect that it is rarely in good conditions, whatever good conditions might mean on such a thing. So this piece of ice really is not for the general public and most of us have no other option of climbing simply the initial part of the icefall, which is a rewarding endeavour anyway. Plus, being admitted at the foot of the Huge Monster of Malaval is a privilege to be treasured.

That foggy morning we had a long drive to la Grave, and so, by the time we arrived, there was already a large party of screaming climbers on the first pitch. Thankfully it was such a wide ice field that we found a little corner on its right border where we could climb in relative peace. Higher up, the fall narrowed down and so I got in closer proximity with the other guys that I thought were Spanish. This deduction proved to be somewhat dangerous and superficial: "We are Basque, not Spanish!" they explained to me in very direct terms, clearly implying that a further mistake of confusing them with Spanish climbers would have not been easily forgiven. Given the presence of such a large group of ice-axes-bearing persons I quickly took the point and amended my mistake.

Higher up the icefall was for Alberto and I only, and we had some good time climbing over the two harder pitches: the first one which was quickly overcame by a cunning oblique ascent, and the second one that required a direct attack at the two tiered icicles.

As I emerged at the top of the second pitch I bumped into two Dutch climbers that were on their way down. Their pupils were slightly dilated and they seemed to be deeply disturbed by something they just saw. I asked them what was wrong and they simply prompted me to look up there. As the huge icicle became finally visible, my jaw dropped and that is how Alberto found me a little later. His jaw dropped too.

We climbed the easy snow gully to the base of the icicle and we stared for a long, long time. At first the ice pillar seemed vertical and extreme. After a while it seemed even harder. If we were real men we would have traversed to the left to check out the alternative gully at least, but, since we were not in full control of our bodily functions anymore we began to abseil, instead. On the way down we discovered that the Dutch guys were so confused by the monstrous apparition up there, that they forgot a brand-new Charlet-Moser ice-axe at a belay. When we returned the axe to them down below, they were still confused enough not to realise that a tool was missing from their rack (the picture, kindly lent by Tuan Luong, shows the upper part of the Moulins icicle as seen from Caturgeas).


More icefalls west of La Grave


Alea Iacta Est
This is the first big icefall that you meet on entering the Malaval reign from La Grave as explained in the description of La Promenade. This climb follow the narrow grove all the way on the right of the main ice wall, close by the rocks. Belays are equipped and they are used for abseil as well. The final goulotte can be pretty thin or even non existent at times (III/5, 160 m).

Le Grand Clot
About 400 m after Alea there are some rather large and horrifying building on the right. This ugly place is named Le Grand Clot on the IGN map. The most notable thing here is the very large falls that begins right at the back of the buildings. Le Grand Clot is the hardest, more frequently in conditions and most beautiful icefall here (V/5+, 500 m). Actually the climb would be long but rather reasonable, but for the free hanging icicle of pitch three. As far as I know there is very little gear on the climb and the rappels are not equipped. The descent is either by following to the right the big ledge that is met after 6 lengths (Vire des Mineurs, delicate always, deadly in snowy conditions) or by continuing to the Plateau d'En Paris.

Le Grand Clot
Another big climb with free hanging icicle (IV/5+ 6, 400 m). Three hundred meters after le Grand Clot these twin pillars open the way to the huge ice field that leads to the top. There is more ice here that in all of Scotland: these pitches are so big that they are well visible from the Lautaret pass, which is miles away! The rightmost pillar seems to be in conditions more often that its brother. No much equipment on the climb and the descent follows the never ending trail down from the Plateau.

La Lerie
This is the last big icefall of the Malaval site. Look for it about one km and half after Caturgeas. Its beautifully simple and elegant line hides a sting on the second pitch (IV/5+, 250 m). The abseils are said to be pretty poor: bring gear and engineering skills.

Phantasme and Orgasme
More big icefalls about five km after Caturgeas. This time the climbs are on the north side of the valley hidden in the folds of the buttresses of Roche Mantel. Orgasme (IV/4+, 280 m, left) and Phantasme (III/5, 200 m, right) are the two big cheese of the site. Climbing is sustained and very interesting on both icefalls. Equipped rappels on both lines. Sadly their altitude is rather low (around 1200 m) so a warm spell has disastrous consequence here, as I found out every time that I came here, hoping, in vain...
Back to Icehome Argentera Bardonecchia Ceillac Fournel
Freissinieres La Grave Gressoney Maurienne Varaita

I would be happy of receiving your comments, material to be added to the guide, images, or anything else that comes to mind. Send everything to Gimmi Ratto gimmi@in.pi.cnr.it

Copyright © 1995, 96 by Gimmi Ratto. (February 17, 1997)